Code files for this project – Arduino sketch, Python script and JSON file
If you grew up in the 90s, you’ll remember floppy disks as the way we moved files around. I still remember my dad using them to boot old software—and being handed one at school to store our “massive” 100KB of homework.
That nostalgia sparked a question:
If we still used floppy disks in 2026… what would that look like?
So I decided to build it.
The Idea: Physical “Disks” That Open Software
The concept is simple:
- An NFC tag is embedded inside a 3D-printed floppy disk
- You insert/present it to a reader
- A microcontroller reads the tag’s UID
- A Python app on the PC maps that UID to an application
- The PC launches the correct software
- The device gives feedback with lights, sound, and a screen
It’s a modern “cartridge” system—except the cartridges are floppy disks.
Step 1: Confirming the NFC Tags Work
Before building anything fancy, I needed to confirm the cheap NFC tags I bought would actually work with the RFID reader.
So I wired the RFID module to an Arduino Uno, uploaded a quick sketch, and used the Serial Monitor to check if the reader could detect the tag and output its UID.
Result: success—first hurdle cleared.
Step 2: The Architecture (Why I Used Python)
Here’s the approach I landed on:
- RFID reader connects to a microcontroller
- Microcontroller passes the UID to a PC
- PC runs a Python listener that:
- recognizes the UID
- maps it to an app
- launches the program automatically
I chose this route because it’s cleaner than hotkeys. I can add as many “disks” as I want just by updating a mapping file, without rewriting microcontroller code every time.
And as a bonus, once the app launches successfully, the PC can send feedback back to the device—so the hardware can respond with LEDs, sounds, or display updates.
Step 3: Prototyping the Full System on a Breadboard
With the plan confirmed, I built the full prototype using:
- Arduino Pro Micro (important because it’s easily recognized over USB)
- RFID reader
- NeoPixel LED ring
- OLED display
- Buzzer module
The moment of truth: I tapped the NFC tag and watched for:
- Notepad launching on the computer
- LEDs changing colour
- OLED showing the software name
- a satisfying click from the buzzer
And it worked exactly how I imagined.
It’s a small detail, but feedback makes projects feel alive. The LED change, the click, the text on-screen—it all adds to the “retro tech” experience.
Step 4: Can the Reader Detect Tags Through Plastic?
A key question: would the RFID reader still read tags when they’re embedded inside a 3D print?
To test it, I quickly mocked up a simple floppy disk print, embedded a tag, and checked detection.
Happily: no issues. That gave me the green light to commit to the proper enclosure and hardware.
Step 5: Designing a Custom PCB (Sponsor: PCBWay)
Once the breadboard prototype proved everything worked, it was time to clean it up.
I jumped into KiCad to design the schematic and PCB, then sent the Gerbers to PCBWay, the sponsor of the video.
The process is straightforward:
- upload Gerbers
- pick your board settings
- wait a few days
- your boards arrive looking exactly like you designed them
What I love most is how much a custom PCB changes the feel of a project. Suddenly it stops looking like a prototype and starts looking like a product.
And PCBWay isn’t just PCBs—they also do things like 3D printing, CNC machining, resin printing, and sheet metal work, which is genuinely useful if you’re building a “real” project but don’t have the equipment.
Step 6: The Enclosure + Assembly (With a Few Setbacks)
While the PCB was being made, I designed the 3D printed enclosure.
A few details from the build:
Removing header pins (painful, but worth it)
Most modules come with header pins pre-soldered, but my plan was to use JST connectors on the PCB to make assembly fast and clean.
That meant removing the header pins from:
- RFID module
- buzzer
- OLED
There was no finesse—just side cutters, flux, soldering iron, and persistence.
Brass inserts and fasteners
I used:
- M3 brass inserts to bolt the enclosure together
- M2 inserts on the base to mount the PCB
Except… I messed up the PCB hole alignment.
So instead of mounting screws, the PCB was secured with the maker’s best friend:
hot glue.
Not ideal—but it works, and it’s hidden inside anyway.
Cable routing surprise
The JST connector for the OLED turned out too large for the gap I left. So I had to:
- remove the connector
- thread wires through
- re-crimp and reattach the JST
Annoying, but manageable.
Step 7: Making the Floppy Disks
The floppy disks were 3D printed, and the NFC tags were embedded mid-print:
- start print
- pause at the right layer
- place NFC tag
- resume print to seal it inside
For logos, I used the quick-and-dirty method:
- printed them on sticky paper
- applied them to the disks
It looks okay, but it’s definitely an area for improvement. I’d love to revisit this with something more “finished” (embossing, inlays, multi-material, vinyl cut overlays—lots of options).
The Final Reveal
The finished device isn’t the most practical thing in the world… but that was never really the point.
This was about:
- nostalgia
- building something playful
- blending hardware, software, and 3D printing into one clean experience
And honestly, I’m really happy with how it turned out.
